Surf Science : An Introduction to Waves for Surfing (2nd ed.)

Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view.

It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.

Where do waves come from? What makes every one different? Why do some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three?

What factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break?

Surf Science answers all these questions and many more.

It is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view.

It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.