Italy

THE GUIDE THAT GETS YOU TO THE heart " &; " soul OF ITALY "upCLOSE Italy" is smart, fun, and informative.

It gives youquirky never-obvious facts about major sights, as well as the lowdown onthe minor ones.

It's in-the-know about what's going on. It reveals theessence of the Eternal City and Birthplace of the Renaissance and helpsyou get the most Italy for your travel dollar.

In short, it's the bestof all possible travel companions.

All the places to go, from Parma to PalermoCastles and gardens, crumbling monasteries, and ancient ruins Venetian glass and lace, leather, funky fashion, and marbleized paperSee the pope, or catch a frenzied Fiorentina soccer match Seaside and mountain hikes, wine-country biking, and the best beachesTell-all reviews of small hotels, cozy pensionsWhere to stay that's charming (and doesn't cost an arm and a leg) Antiques-filled pensions, rooms in private homes, and farm stays City finds: palazzi with terraces, high ceilings, and mosaic floors Squeaky-clean hostels with sea views and home-cooked mealsThe buzz on trattorias, the club and music scene, and operaLowdown on local specialties: hearty pasta, cheap wine, and fresh seafood Where to find opera tickets and techno, hip-hop, and jazz joints Best bets for gelato and pizza Wine bars, pubs, and beer halls When to watch (or join) the" passeggiata" from a piazza cafe Practical info, great mapsAirfare deals and how to get around Tips on traveling smart and losing the crowds Clear, easy-to-read maps